Yesterday I finished watching a
British food documentary, hosted by the late chef and host of 2 Fat
Ladies, Clarissa
Dickson Wright. I was looking for a good documentary about the History of
British food when I stumbled upon this one.
A People’s History, Breakfast,
Lunch and Dinner
(BBC Documentary)
I would love to share with you
what I have learned in the documentary, so I will be posting all the important
details that I have noted here.
It is said that the rituals of
breakfast, lunch and dinner are often taken for granted. In this documentary we
will learn a lot about the gastronomical revolution, technological leaps and
sometimes the gruesome with regards to meals in England. Food is just about
more than filling one’s selves up.
In this documentary, Chef Wright
explains the origin of the 3 main meals of the British people, namely Breakfast
, Lunch and Dinner. Firstly, we are
going to talk about Breakfast. For the British, breakfast is the first meal of
the day. It’s origin remains a mystery in history. The traditional breakfast
(it is also the contribution of the British in the International cuisine) or
the so called full English Breakfast, a quintessential morning meal. You can
actually eat it and enjoy it at any time of the day. One of the popular dish is
the combination of bacon and eggs. But how did it come about? Chef Wright
interviewed a Dominican priest to tell of its history.
According to him, in the Middle
Ages, the Catholics determine what you can eat and when. For example, it is
forbidden to eat before attending a mass, you should not break your fasting.
Also, during the Lenten season, and when the religious people like the monks
and nuns fast, they are forbidden to eat meat, because meat is associated with
the flesh and the sex. In the 13th century, Medieval restrictions is
rampant. Pescatarian diet is recommended and considered virtuous. Chef Wright
was offered a dish of sole fish that soaked and served with honey and mustard. During the Lenten season there’s a single day
when you can eat meat, eggs, and indulge. From the scraps of meat of pork or
beef, that’s where the origin of the combination of bacon and eggs arise.
In the Medieval ages families own
pigs. To preserve the meat, after butchering it they cure it. Curing is a
method of preservation. The whole pig is curable. After the pork is cured it is
then baked. The destitute can’t afford to buy meat. The curing of pork is the
origin of bacon. Bacon became associated with breakfast in the 17th
century. According to Dr. Ian Mortimer (a fellow, Royal Historal Society in the
University College of London). The earliest breakfast custom is hugely divided
into the society. The aristocrats do have breakfast while the poor starve to
death). So breakfast is part of the aristocratic household. The more extravagant
it is the better the breakfast is. As they say, “If you can afford it, you can
eat well.”
Caroline Yeldham (Historian, food
specialist Medieval Times), showed Ms. Wright how to cook eggs in the medieval
period. They roasted it. The first
comprehensive English cookery book was by Robert May (1660). At this time they
can control the temperature when they cook because they use charcoal. Ms.
Yeldham made an omelette (which is an imported French dish), made with chopped
ham, nuts etc. According to Chef Wright,
Robert May’s recipe version of his omelette was too elaborate to be considered
as a morning dish. A physician urged restraint in the people’s diet during
those times. In the Venice Medical Book, Right Way to a Long Life, obesity was
first used. There’s an even recommended diet for breakfast, poached eggs with
little bread and butter, and a Claret wine.
Wine and beer is the traditional
dish for cooking. Coffee as a drink became popular in the 16th
century. Tea which was imported from China in the 1650’s became a domestic
drink, because it is easy to prepare.
Tea became a breakfast drink in the late 1740-1750’s. In the 18th
century tea drinking became popular in the social circle, and became a highly
fashionable activity. By the 19th century it has taken its place in
breakfast.
According to Chef Wright, in classical literature particularly
in Jane Austen’s novel food was also depicted, soft boiled eggs was mentioned
in Emma, while brioche was mentioned in Northanger Abbey.
In the 19th century
English breakfast reached new heights. According to Christine Robinson (head
housekeeper at Chatsworth), if you are a lady at those times you might prefer
breakfast in bed. Breakfast is that time of the day that a lady can eat in bed.
Edward VII is a frequent guest at Chatsworth. His favorite breakfast dish was
hollowed onions, with chicken liver stuffings mixed with brandy and then baked.
It’s a hugely indulgent breakfast. In those times, a large party consists of
2,920 hot and cold dishes. The recommended menu are as follows:
Menu:
Trout, Plovers, Eggs in Aspic
Sweet bread cutlets, Fried Filets
of Sole, Coquiller of Shrimp
Kidney Omelet, Devilled chicken, Hashed
Venison, Eggs.
Kedgeree of Salmon, Broiled
pigeons, Eggs and Bacon
In the 19th century,
the middle-class also wanted to enjoy and experience what the Aristocrats are
having. Fortnum and Mason (a sort of specialty shop) was founded by a footman
in 1707. Before the customers aren’t allowed to touch the products, they can
only taste it. A store staff will take note of what they wanted, and can give
them advise or suggest things to them.
Marmalade brought in England in
the year 1660’s by Portuguese Princess
Catherine of Braganza who became the Queen of England. The oldest marmalade was
the Burlington’s breakfast marmalade. It was first made for the earl of
Burlington, the recipe now was made by his chef.
The Victorian and Edwardian era,
people kept adapting and inventing. Breakfast was considered as an early
refinement. Chef Wright was able to try some of dishes a this time. She tried
the kedgeree, which consists of rice and lentils, considered a poor man’s meal.
British officer from India brought the dish to England, and they added smoked
fish in it, and India the fish that they use is fresh. Kipper is a preserved
salted fish.
Chef Wright also talked about
another revolution in the breakfast history. The invention of the
popular
American breakfast, a household name all
over the world, Kellogg’s cornflakes. Dr. Kellogg’s was a member of 7
th
day Adventist, and believes that God intended for us to eat vegetables, nuts
and grains only. He was also the inventor of peanut butter. He invented the
cereal because he believes that oatmeal is no good for him. After
tasting and getting to know the history of this popular American breakfast
item, she came to the conclusion that sweetened cereals is not for her.
Having a filling breakfast put us
into good mood. Nowadays, in our fast-paced time it is a luxury to have a
cooked breakfast. A good breakfast comes with a cost and that is time. Lunch
was a meal that didn’t exist almost 300 years ago. Dinner is a meal that
clearly signals how we position ourselves to our peers. In the middle-ages
dinner was done during the middle of the day where there is still light.
According to Sally Dixon Smith (food historian), Ravioli started in the 14th
century. No plate or cutlery existed during the middle-ages. People didn’t eat
on a plate. They eat on a trencher. Dining exercises in decorum and hygiene
exists, and it is not a raucous event. Entertainment
during dinner is not only expected on minstrels or court jesters, but also to
medieval cooks, who only not prepared food which were feast for the eyes but
also they can throw odd jokes. Liber Cure Cocorum is a book about culinary
practical jokes.
According to Ivan Day (food
historian), during medieval times they have limited cooking apparatus,
nevertheless they can produce unique dishes. Like the mock entrails, which was
called Chawdewyne De Boyce (chaudron entrails of the woods). It is made of
mixed nuts, and raisins, with batter, and roasted to resemble entrails.
Gluttony is a mark of aristocracy.
The Tudors (Welsh in origin), indulge themselves in
sweets. They even have an area that is dedicated for making confectionary.
Sweets are not for poor people because, sugar during those times are expensive.
Sugar was imported from North Africa and Egypt. Painted marzipan is a popular
dessert. Ellinor Fettiplace, invented the recipe for meringue, and she is a
favorite of Chef Wright. In a banquet, the goodies were usually served in the
end. Chef Wright was given in her honor a fondant in the shape of a shield,
depicting the star sign when she was born, numbers associated with her,
talents/skills and beans (which means secrets she divulged). Decay and tooth
problems are rampant in those days because of their love for sweets. Anyhow,
the damage was alleviated during the 17th century with the arrival
of a concept of toothbrush, which originated from China.
Fork was a 17th
century implement. Thomas Coryat brought it from Italy. He wrote about the fork
in 1608. Coryat was seen as a social weirdo. For was a 2 flat prong back then.
It was when Charles I declared in 1663 that it is decent to eat with a fork. By
the end of the 17th century everyone was using a fork. The use of
spoon signifies a political allegiance to Charless II (trefid spoon).
Supper is a light meal at the end
of the day. Dinner is the main meal of the day. It is moved to 3 or 4 in the
afternoon because of the light. Lunch is usually taken at midday. Meat is a
vital part of dinner. Please do check out the part II. Thank you!
